7.2 definitions

ground swell - that has created a permanent, long-lasting shift in the way the world works.

plunging waves - A plunging wave occurs when the swell comes out of deep water and hits a shallow sandbar or reef

wave height - The difference between the crest and the trough

wavelength - The difference between two crests

fetch - To go and bring back

surf and swash zone - The area where the shore meets the first wave breaking