2. the fetch is the length of where the waves form
3. as the waves form it hits the sea floor which causes them to break
4.
5.
6. spilling waves crumble up the top, plunging waves form a tube and you can get pitted, surging waves don't break and they just roll up the sea floor
7. wind swell is marked by a short wavelength and high frequency f waves hitting the beach and a ground swell forms when waves have traveled across a greater distance of ocean before hitting the coast. a ground swell has longer wavelength and the waves hit the beach less frequently
9. there are 3 types of waves, a plunging wave, spilling wave and surging waves. a plunging wave makes a tube, a spilling wave 'crumbles' at its peak and a surging wave roll up the steep of the surface rather than breaking over it
10. Today, large swells hit our beach as I was patrolling it. It was like something out of a history book as large swells smashed into the rocks and rocked surfers around like they were just clothes in a washing machine. Luckily there were no deaths but many injuries mainly head injuries which were the result of this large cyclone swell. Obviously, we closed the beach but this didn't stop the sightseers and photographers to take record breaking shots of the swells. Today was a day to never forget.
No comments:
Post a Comment